Since the last time, the Duck has been tacked. That is, dabs of epoxy have been applied between the wires
preparatory to filleting the seams. The tacks hold the pieces together and allow the wires to be
removed. This keeps the fillets from having to be thick enough to cover the wires and saves epoxy,
woodflour and weight. There is one more task before the Duck is ready for filleting and taping.
CLC specifies that the Duck be built with an endpour in the bow and extra-large fillets in the stern.While this
has all sorts of advantages, especially for supporting first-time builders over the phone, I find that it
uses way too much epoxy. It also adds needless weight. Finally, as described, the transom is not strong enough to attach
heavy-duty threaded fittings.
The stem & stern pieces presented here are light, cheap, strong and in my opinion,
easier to make than endpours. There's no fussing with dams, no worries about epoxy going exothermic & boiling over
and you don't have to stand your boat on end with the risk of it falling over.
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Piecing the stem piece
The bow has a pronounced curve. Trying to follow it with a single piece of wood
would require a lot of fussy joinery work. Instead, I roughly shaped 4 pieces of wood
to follow the general shape. Since the pieces would be bedded in epoxy/woodflour putty,
the shaping could be very rough, indeed. These are the "finished" pieces. No one should
be put off by the amount of woodworking involved.
Nor by the price. These are recycled bits of a tangerine crate - very strong, yet light.
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Gluing the stem piece
Each piece is locked into place by the one above it. The final piece is held in place by the clamp.
The piece of polyethylene keeps the clamp from becoming a permanent part of the boat.
Note the large triangular area at the bow. This is an ideal gluing surface for attaching the
deck, another advantage of a stempiece over the endpour. Also visible are the tacks between the
wires. Once the wires are removed, they'll hold the hull together while the fillets are applied.
They're very flat to allow smooth fillets.
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Stern piece bits
The big piece is carved from a spruce 2x4 scrap. The smaller pieces are carved from the
tangerine crate scrap. The one at the top left is pieced from 3 separate pieces
which are hot-glued. Again, the pieces can be left very rough. There's no reason
for time-consuming, finicky work.
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Clamping the stern piece
The stern piece gives an impression of massive solid strength. And it is. Yet, it's actually lighter
than an equivalent end pour. Once the putty cured, the pieces were touched up with a chisel to
remove sudden transitions and a final layer of putty was applied.
The stern is strong enough to allow the mounting of any rudder system, an eyebolt to attach
tiedowns, tow lines, etc.
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